AS a Kuchingite, to be honest, I have never toured my city before, and although I knew the name of the buildings situated in Kuching’s City Centre, I have never immerse myself in the stories of certain buildings. That being said, I booked a stay at Marian Boutique Lodging House located just beside Hong Sang Si Temple at Wayang Street. The stay at the boutique hotel was amazing as it gave me the advantage of looking out the view that is Kuching.
From the windows of Marian, roofs of the old shophouses were prominent, with the beautifully triangular shaped golden-roof State Assembly Building as the shophouses’ background – the view was worthwhile, especially during the sunrise and sunset. What is further more magnificent, was that since the boutique hotel is located at the centre of Kuching, it gave me a better opportunity to walk around the city instead of only driving through. Having heard and read about the Brooke’s Gallery situated across the river at Fort Margherita, my comrades and I made the building the first destination on our list of exploration.
From one of the Waterfront jetties, we took a boat to cross the river which cost us RM 1 per person – with his excellent techniques of rowing and a push from the boat’s engine, the boatman navigated his roofed-wooden sampan to a long bridge at the other side of the river. Including the long bridge walk, and a walk past the village houses and a dilapidated old school building, the journey to Fort Margherita took us approximately 10 to 15 minutes.
While walking, we were greeted by children from the village who were busy playing with each other and their joyful cheers that brimmed the forest. Surprisingly, although it was a hot day, it was not scorching hot as we were sheltered by canopy of trees in between houses. As we arrived, the scene albeit peaceful, with its English colonial influenced building, it feels as though we were brought back to the past.
One could just imagined a war that once erupted there, or a cannon diffused to hit its target at the opposite. With the year 1880, and the Dum Spiro Spero logo accompanied with a badger on top stamped above the entry of Fort Margherita, we were welcomed with a big smile from the receptionist who cheekily told us that sometimes patrons visiting the fort experienced supernatural occurence; we chuckled and paid for our tickets which cost RM 10 each for local adults. Fort Margherita which is named after the second White Rajah of Sarawak, Charles Brooke’s wife, Margaret Alice Lili de Windt – the building is a three-storey tower block’s battlement that includes a watchpoint, and a courtyard equipped with cannons shooting through a wooden window. With its current Brooke’s Gallery opened to public, visitors are able to learn the history of the Brooke’s family alongside browsing through artefacts from the Brooke’s dynasty displayed inside the museum. We then climbed a steep, narrow stairs. Reaching the top, we could see the beautiful Kuching city in aerial view, as well as enjoy the cool breeze on the top of the three-storey building perched on the top of a hill. Next on the exploration list was Wayang Street.
Normally, we would just drive pass the road as we could not be bothered to take a look at the row of shops selling souvenirs. As we walked through each and every shops, a diversified Sarawakthemed merchandises were on display, all portraying the characteristics that is the beauty in not only our city, but also the state Sarawak. From magnets, carved wooden statues to t-shirts and bookmarks, there are even food products such as kolo mee and instant kampua mee presented as choices for the tourists to better remember our homeland. Further down the path, we make it a point to visit India Street where its essential businesses were of fabric each with its unique intricate prints – detailed with floral, symmetry, and even leopard while some attributed to the local tribal element. The fabrics sold at India Street is what thrives this part of the city.
There are also shops selling garments at a cheap cost, all displayed outside awaiting their turn to be bought. Some days, there would be a cart selling putu mayam, an Indian delicacy with its main ingredient being water, flour and coconut flakes. However on the day I was there, which was during Chinese New Year, the cart was not there, and I did not get to taste it. The famous putu mayam is said to be one of the best, albeit being rare sight in Kuching, and during days it is opened, the cart will be surrounded by people wanting to have a go at it. At the entry point of India Street, where the arch resides, on the side of the walls were murals with the elements of Sarawak painted with beaut. Meanwhile, the famous Open Air Market is located just opposite the entry point. We took a u-turn at the street to visit the external part of India Street called Jalan Gambier.
Again, I was amazed because there were so many things I did not know about my city – that is the display of numerous Indian spices, different shades of orange coloured powder, and other sundry products were sold in most shops located at Jalan Gambier. Though it is a common thing, to me it is what thrives the street, and it lived up to its name – India Street. At night, the most liveliest place would be at the Waterfront where there are vendors selling toys, and providing renting activities such as bubble play and hoverboard. Upon walking over, I could already see the State Assembly Building and the newly launched Darul Hana bridge at the background, lighted up with grandeur while individual blue mini lights were shot up from a slingshot – among the toys sold at the Waterfront.
The surroundings of the waterfront were engulfed with lively songs blasting from speakers merged with overwhelming harmonious laughter, not only from children, but adults too. The visits to my own backyard becomes a definite eye-opener for not only me, but my comrades as well. In my opinion, being a complacent Kuchingite, I would not have visited the historical landmarks if not for this opportunity that I took.
Albeit having stayed in Kuching throughout my whole life, I must say, I knew little of the culture that we have here. Yes we are a quiet city, yes we are multi-diverse but how much do one actually knows about the quaint city and its streets, and the people that walked its terrains? Given the opportunity to just lay back from our hustling life, to just embrace the culture and let it seep within as we capture the vicinity into our heart, not just memorising which road to take to reach our destination – it is only then, you will see a different picture from your usual backyard. Yes, our city is more than just sundry shoppers, souvenir buyers, buskers, locals flocking the bay, variants of fabric sold at a good price, kolo mee, our city – Kuching, like any other city, it is made from the people, their language, the colours, their culture – the union of all, and that is a picturesque landmark on its own.