JORDAN, a Middle Eastern country which shares borders with Syria, Palestine, Iraq and Saudi Arabia, is home to many archaeological, religious and tourist attractions.
Beyond the widely known Petra and the surreal Wadi Rum, Jordan is rich in history and culture.
The Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan is recognised as one of the safest Arab countries in the Middle East.
Despite the surrounding turmoil, it has maintained stability, fostering a hospitable environment where individuals of diverse religious backgrounds coexist in at atmosphere of tolerance.
New Sarawak Tribune’s reporter, Jacintha Jolene embarked on an eight day, seven night familiarisation trip to Jordan, along with Gaya Travel Magazine and eight travel agencies based in Peninsular Malaysia namely Al Furqan Travel and Tours, Ai Smart Holidays, Homes Travel and Tours, Lovely Memory Holiday, Leisure Tours Network, Alwasayet Travels and Tours, Widad Tours and Travel and Manazel Mashear Travel Services to discover the attractions that Jordan has to offer.
Mount Nebo, Jordan’s holy site and Madaba, City of Mosaic
First order of the day for the group was visiting Mount Nebo in Western Jordan, which is about forty minutes’ drive from the capital, Amman.
Mount Nebo is mostly known for its religious significance and is an essential stop on most Jordan itineraries, especially for those on pilgrimage.
According to our guide, Basel Ahmad, this is the mountain where Moses saw the Promised Land before he died, as stated in the Old Testament.
The Bible says that Mount Nebo was where Moses lived out his final days and saw the Promised Land. Much has been said that Moses’ body may be buried here but his grave was never found.
Mount Nebo also offers a panoramic view over areas of the Dead Sea, Jordan River and Jericho and even Jerusalem from the viewing platform next to the large Brazen Serpentine Cross.
On March 20, 2000, Pope John Paul II was in Amman to begin his pilgrimage to the Holy Land and from the mountain, he looked upon the land which was promised to Moses.
On this occasion, he planted an olive tree next to the chapel as a symbol of peace in honour of the people who now live in these lands.
The original church to stand on this mountain was built in the 4th century to commemorate the place of Moses’ death. After the church had undergone several renovations, today, it still boasts several centuries old mosaics, ancient columns and remains an active church, where visitors must dress modestly.
One worth mentioning is the mosaic of the Diakonikon Baptistery, portraying hunting and pastoral scenes of well-preserved tesserae. This mosaic stands out as one of the most remarkable Byzantine mosaics in the region, showing an assortment of African fauna such as zebu (humped ox), lions, tigers, bears, boars, zebras and more.
Next, the group headed to Bani Hamida Carpets and Mosaic, not far from Mount Nebo, which houses inspiring artists and youths involved in art making, especially on mosaic work.
According to Rose, one of the artists, one of the purposes of the programme under the Queen Noor Foundation is to create more job opportunities for the unemployed as well as to revive the craft of doing arts.
“To achieve these goals, we give free training for three months to both men and women, including people with special needs. After three months, the artists will be able to start making their own arts in small and simple design pieces.
“If one decides to continue the programme with us, they will begin creating medium and large-sized pieces. Once these pieces are finished, Bani Hamida, as a platform, will market and sell them, and the proceeds will be returned to the artists responsible for their creation,” she explained.
Rose explained that the mosaic designs draw inspiration from the Byzantine period such as Mount Nebo and the Tree of Life.
In the process of crafting mosaic art, she said a variety of stones in different sizes, shapes and colours are collected.
“We gather natural stones from various locations in Jordan, encompassing diverse sizes, colours and shapes. With a machine, we cut these stones into pieces, ensuring they fit the designated size and shape required on the white canvas design.
“Each of the small pieces will be dipped in a natural glue mixture composed of wheat flour and water,” she said.
After this stage, the piece undergoes a drying period of about a week, or less, depending on the weather. This time allows the artwork to be solid, similar to other completed pieces.
The final touch involves applying lacquer to safeguard the artwork, after which Rose stressed that the product will be guaranteed for up to 200 years.
As part of the programme in collaboration with the Queen Noor Foundation, she said DHL, an international courier company, will bear the shipping fee and warranty for medium and large-sized mosaic pieces or rugs to any location around the world, which relieves both buyers and contributing artists from any associated costs.
Petra, one of the seven wonders of the world
A visit to Jordan would be incomplete without exploring Petra, distinguished as one of the new seven wonders of the world. Designated as a Unesco World Heritage Site in 1985, Petra stands as Jordan’s most frequented tourist attraction.
The group’s journey from Mount Nebo to Petra in the Ma’an Governorate took about three hours, showing us a transition from the elevated landscapes of the former to the ancient city, known for its impressive archaeological marvels.
Approaching Petra, guide Basel also showed the group the Moses’ Spring, located at the main entrance of Petra near the bottom of Wadi Musa (Valley of Moses). He said the water from the valley continues to flow through the spring to this day.
Petra, dubbed the ‘Rose City’, earns its nickname from the hue derived from the sandstone used in its construction. It was famously called ‘a rose-red city half as old time’ in a poem written by John Burgon in 1845.
Settlement in the vicinity of Petra dates back to as early as 7000 BC, and the Nabateans might have established themselves in what would later become the capital of their kingdom around the 4th century BC.
While archaeological findings show Nabatean presence from the second century BC onwards, it was during this time that Petra evolved into their capital. The Nabateans, recognising the strategic location of Petra along incense trade routes, transformed it into a significant regional trading centre.
On the way to The Treasury, visitors will pass by The Obelisk Tomb, which was constructed in the first century BCE carved by the Nabateans. Above the tomb are four pyramids called ‘nafesh’ as well as a niche with a statue in bas-relief that is a symbolic representation of the five people buried there.
The Siq is the road which leads to the city of Petra, which starts at the Dam and ends at the Treasury. It is a rock canal that measures 160 meters in length, 3 to 12 meters in width and reaches up to 80 meters in height. To reach The Treasury, one might opt to walk, use the cart services or horse riding.
The Siq opens up onto Petra’s wonder called the Treasury or Al Khazneh in Arabic, which is almost 40 meters high. The Treasury is crowned by a funerary urn, which according to local legend conceals a pharaoh’s treasure.
Among the famous movies filmed in Petra include Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, to name a few.
Other notable sites for further exploration include The Theater, The Urn Tomb, The Silk Tomb, The Corinthian Tomb, Palace Tomb, The Sextius Florentinus Tomb, The Colonnaded Street, The Monastery. Exploring these attractions involves extended hikes and may need additional overnight stays.
Bedouin hospitality and camping in Wadi Rum
Departing Petra, the group made it way to Wadi Rum, which took about one and a half hour via the Kings Highway and the Desert Highway.
Along the way, the group stopped at Jordan’s Hejaz Railway Train not far from the group’s campsite, a refurbished locomotive in the middle of the Jordanian desert. However, the train and the aging tracks are sometimes overlooked as it’s just near the Wadi Rum visitors centre.
The development of the railways was initiated by the Ottoman Empire with the purpose of connecting Damascus in present-day Syria to Medina in Saudi Arabia, passing through Jordan’s southern region. The railway aimed to facilitate the annual pilgrimage to Mecca. Construction began in 1900 and reached its completion in 1908.
However, during World War 1, the railway became a target for military operations. Lawrence of Arabia, a British military officer, led attacks against the Ottoman forces along the Hejaz Railway as part of the Arab Revolt.
Today, remnants of the railway can still be seen, including stations, bridges, and tracks, serving as historical landmarks and a testament to the railway’s significance in the region’s past.
Upon our arrival at one of the Bedouin camps, the group was treated to a welcoming tea, consisting of cinnamon, cardamom and sage. According to guide Basel, this is one of the Bedouin’s ways to welcome tourists and people to their houses.
The Bedouins are one of Jordan’s most well-known ethnic groups. They are experts at adapting to life in the harsh desert conditions and living in the climate.
The group was then treated to a traditional meal for lunch called ‘Maklouba’, which translates to ‘upside down’ in Arabic. The dish consists of meat or chicken and vegetables in a pot with rice and once it’s cooked, it’s flipped upside down onto a big platter. It’s also served with yogurt and a simple salad.
The day carried on with a jeep tour, cruising through the sand dunes, painted with a palette of endless red and clear skies. Wadi Rum is also called the ‘Mars on Earth’, its landscape having been used to portray the Red Planet in the film, The Martian.
Chasing the sunset, the group seized the opportunity to engage in camel riding. Throughout this one-hour experience, we immersed ourselves in the captivating beauty of the desert.
For dinner, we savoured ‘zarb,’ a Bedouin culinary tradition involving marinated meat and vegetables buried in a sandy-ground oven. This unique cooking method ensures a slow, flavourful cook in the food’s own juices, delivering tender meat and perfectly cooked vegetables.
As the night unfolded, we wrapped up the evening with a lively dance party alongside Bedouins and fellow tourists. Later, we indulged in viewing the night sky from the comfort of our individual bubble tents.
Stay tuned for the second part of this series.
