KEEPING the kebaya heritage alive are also the young, as we see more Malaysian children wearing the elegant kebaya during festivals, kids’ pageants, cultural events, and fashion shows.
It was cuteness overload at a fashion show with these little ones clad in kebayas. Without a doubt, they deserved a page or two dedicated to their efforts.
Donning the heritage blouse and matching it well with batik sarongs and even skirts, they were not only looking pretty but also skilful on the catwalk, as captured in our photos by our writer.
The elegant kebaya captivates many, and its popularity surged especially after the airing of the TV series “Little Nyonya”.
Since then, more people have embraced this traditional attire, reviving the lost art of the kebaya in the modern world.
In Melaka or Penang on a busy weekend, you might find tourists renting these traditional garments to stroll around the old cities, posing against a backdrop of vintage structures, much like the starlets of “Little Nyonya”. This is an expressive way to capture the cultural identity of our Malaysian heritage cities, and to create memorable souvenirs through pictures or social media posts for immediate attention.
Yours truly almost bumped into a little kebaya-clad girl carrying a small umbrella. Her mother was busy directing her poses, while the little girl wrinkled her nose and sweated in the afternoon heat.
Apparently, the history of the kebaya is quite uncharted, and if you check online or visit any boutiques, you will probably be confounded by the different variations in sewing, motifs, and materials now used.
Perhaps this is why some people actively search for vintage pieces that are traditionally sewn and that carry the identity and heritage of the Baba Nyonya community.
Last December, during a trip to Java Island in Indonesia, and particularly in a heritage city like Yogyakarta, I learned more about the kebaya, which is considered a symbolic national dress with significant historical background.
When the Portuguese arrived in Indonesia in the early 16th century to dominate the spice trade, some women in Java were already wearing the kebaya on their upper bodies. Initially, these garments were reserved only for royalty and nobility and only spread to the peasants in the 18th century.
To begin with, the blouse was not a short version as it was Baju Panjang (long blouse) then. The kebaya top has evolved over time, with the shorter tunic being an innovation from the Peranakan community, who added beautiful beaded shoes and purses to enhance its glamour.
A Nyonya kebaya top in Malaysia is adorned with motifs of flowers, animals, insects, and other designs that may be inspired by Oriental art. Among the most prized embroidery works are those featuring orchids. Pink orchids symbolise femininity, grace, and elegance, while red ones are associated with desire, passion, and love.
The fabric of a Nyonya kebaya is usually made from voile and rubia, and crafting it requires the art of sulam, or embroidery.
Sadly, the art of embroidery is fading, as fewer people show interest in sewing and embroidery. As a result, having a kebaya specially hand-made can cost significantly more than purchasing a mass-produced one by machine.
The traditional kebaya top does not have buttons down its front. Instead, a brooch or a typical kerongsang ibu (for adults) or kerongsang anak (for kids) is pinned to secure the opening of the blouse.
Batik sarongs are still worn today with kebaya tops. If you’re in Kuching city, you may find FABRIKO at India Street to be a good place to source a variety of hand-blocked batik sarongs or printed textiles with Borneo-inspired motifs to match.
Currently, Malaysia is in a joint bid with four other Southeast Asian nations to have the kebaya recognised as an Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO.
