Tuak’s transformation from tradition to art

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Ngirupp offers an array of up to eight tuak flavours.

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KUCHING: Growing up in the city, Sylvia Lim Zi Wen knew very little about tuak, an intoxicating drink made by fermenting rice. All she could remember was that it was stored in a bottle without any labels, commonly available in villages, and served during the Gawai Dayak festival.

Sylvia Lim Zi, 21, founder of Ngirupp

“I didn’t pay much attention to it. I didn’t even have any idea how it was made and what the ingredients were,” she recalled.

However, her random decision to work at a bar after completing her Sijil Tinggi Persekolahan Malaysia (STPM) introduced her to a whole new perspective on tuak.

As a mixologist, she has learned that cocktails became more than just drinks; they were liquid works of art. It was this newfound perspective that led her to re-examine tuak, seeing it as a representation of Sarawak’s distinctive culture.

The idea to set up a booth to introduce tuak cocktails was sparked after seeing a ‘Seni Kita’ post – an art festival for the local community – in December last year.

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“We set up a booth at the art festival (as cocktails are also an art) even though I was anxious and wondered if people would want to drink tuak-based cocktails during the day?”

To her surprise, the response was overwhelming. People were eager to explore new flavours and experiences, embracing tuak-based cocktails even during daylight hours.

Many did not expect that the traditionally brewed wine made from glutinous rice, sugar, water, and ragi (yeast) could be turned into a tasty cocktail.

“We received a lot of encouragement and positive feedback, and some customers even requested whether we could brew and sell our tuak. Thus, I took the challenge and embarked on a journey to learn the craft first-hand,” she said.

Earlier this year, the 21-year-old went to learn about tuak-making at an Iban longhouse in Lubok Antu, where her sister-in-law’s mother has been brewing tuak for decades.

After months of trials, she successfully brewed her first batch at home, eagerly awaiting its maturation for that perfect taste.

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Currently, she is selling her products using a five-year-old tuak from Lubok Antu while waiting for her tuak to be ready next year.

Apart from rice, Lim said ragi is another key ingredient in tuak making. It contains the enzymes and yeast needed to convert the starch in the rice into sugar, and then from sugar to alcohol, which happens in the fermentation process.

To create various unique flavours of tuak, she applies both fermentation and infusion methods, depending on the ingredients.

“My preference for each method is distinct; fermentation shines for fruits or more liquid ingredients, while infusion unveils the essence of flowers or herbs with dry elements, imparting stronger flavours.”

Chrysanthemum and Green Tea flavours, she said, are among the top sellers, attracting customers from across Malaysia, especially from the Peninsula.

Under the banner of Ngirupp—meaning ‘drink’ in Iban—Lim primarily operates online, offering an array of up to eight tuak flavours.

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But for her, it’s not just a business; it’s a passion for preserving and sharing Sarawak’s culture through the art of liquor.

“In every sip is a piece of Sarawak’s heritage, appreciated by customers who value the essence of this unique culture.

“We believe in honouring the roots of Sarawakian culture while giving it a fresh, modern twist to ignite the younger generation’s love for our heritage,” she said.

Her vision extends beyond tuak and cocktails; she envisions tuak cookies, ice cream, and collaborations with other brands to promote Sarawak’s culture.

Ngirupp will be participating in the upcoming Seni Kita Weekend event at the Kuching Community Social Support Centre (CSSC) on December 9 and 10, from 10 am to 6 pm.

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